Sunday, September 30, 2018

Lunenburg to Sheet Harbor, Nova Scotia

Tuesday, September 18 – This morning, Dad moved the RV to a nearby parking lot, then he and Mom took the Jeep to an area called Blue Rocks, which is just outside Lunenburg.  The rocks are “bluish” slate.  They thought it was pretty.





A tide pool

Then they came back and parked the Jeep and walked to downtown Lunenburg to explore the town.  After lunch, they went to the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic and learned a little about fishing in the North Atlantic and toured a fishing boat.

Bunks for the fishermen.  

The table had edges and dividers for each place, so the dishes wouldn't slide off.

View from the boat looking back at downtown Lunenburg.

After the Museum, they hitched up the Jeep and we went to find a place at Camp Wal-Mart in Halifax. 

On the way into Halifax, Mom read that the Martime Museum of the Atlantic is open late on Tuesday and it’s free after 6 PM, so they decided to go.  The part that they found most interesting was that the Halifax harbor was used extensively by supply convoys in both World War I and World War II.  It’s the closest North American port to Europe that doesn’t freeze in the winter.  Also, the mouth is relatively small (making it easier to defend) and the harbor itself is quite large (making it easier to provide a safe haven for a large number of ships gathering for a convoy).

They also learned that on December 6, 1917 a ship loaded with bomb materials headed for Europe was entering the harbor at about the same time that a relief supply ship was leaving the harbor.  They both entered the area known as “the Narrows” (the area that separates the inner harbor from the open ocean) as fog rolled in.  Due to a number of errors on the parts of the captains of both ships, the two ships collided.  A fire broke out on the bomb ship and about 30 minutes later, the fire reached the explosives.  The blast killed 2,000, injured 9,000, and left 25,000 people without homes.  All buildings within 1/2 mile were destroyed and damage extended for several miles from debris, the shock-wave, and the tsunami triggered by the shock-wave.   It was the largest man-made explosion, prior to the atomic bomb in 1945.  They were both surprised that they had never heard of this event.

Wednesday, September 19 - Today Mom and Dad went to visit the Halifax Citadel.  It’s a fort that dates back to 1749 that is on a hill in what is now downtown Halifax. 

A borrowed aerial view of the Halifax Citadel

Today, the "guards" are actually hired by the City of Halifax to 
entertain the tourists, but still fun to watch the pageantry.

A canon firing demonstration.

Travel tip – Parking is kind of expensive in downtown Halifax; however, there is parking inside the Citadel and it’s $3.15 Canadian (about $2.50 USD) for all day!  If you are going to visit the Citadel, go there first and park, then you can walk around town to see the other sites.

After visiting the Citadel, Mom and Dad walked down to the waterfront and then went by the Nova Scotia Parliament Building (the equivalent of a state capital).  They arrived a few minutes before Parliament was about to start a session and they were invited to stay to watch.  They thought it was interesting to see the Canadian government in action.  They weren't allowed to take pictures inside the Parliament Building, but here are some other things that they saw in downtown Halifax.
This is the Bluenose II.  It's a copy of the Bluenose, a racing ship 
and fishing vessel, built in 1921 in Lunenburg.  Bluenose won the International 
Fisherman's trophy multiple times in the 1920's and 30's and was a great 
source of pride in Canada.  The main mast was 126' and is made of  an Oregon pine, 
so I guess a source of pride for the Pacific NW, too.  It is commemorated in various 
ways and is currently on the Nova Scotia license plate.  The Bluenose II was built in 1963.

A cool bird

One of the fine entertainment spots in Halifax.  
We didn't check it out, but liked the sign.

The Entrance to the Halifax Public Garden

The Band stand in the Halifax Public Garden

A real heron on a boat model in the middle of the Halifax Public Garden

Late in the afternoon, they came back to me at Halifax Camp Wal-Mart and we drove across the river to Dartmouth Camp Wal-Mart.  In Dartmouth, if you pick the right spot, you can get free wi-fi from Home Depot.  What a deal!  There was a new Ikea nearby, so they drove over there and looked around.  Mom bought some hooks at Ikea a few years ago and now she wants more of them.  Sadly, it seems they no longer carry that particular type L

Just a little traffic getting across the channel from Halifax to Dartmouth.  
There are only 2 bridges.  This is taken out the windshield of the motor home.

Thursday, September 20 – We woke up to another beautiful day, so Mom and Dad decided to drive to Eastern Passage.  It’s a little fishing village near the mouth of the Halifax harbor, on the Dartmouth (east) side.  They read that there are several restored buildings on the wharf and they decided to check it out.



They came back to me and we continued east.  We stopped at the Visitor Information in Sheet Harbor to inquire about Campgrounds.  They were closed, so we continued on.  About another kilometer down the road there was a pub.  Dad stopped and Mom went in to see if anyone there knew of campgrounds in the area.  Mom happened to be talking to the owner and she offered to let us stay in her parking lot for the night.  Such nice people!

It was still a little early, so Mom and Dad went out.  Dad was going to do laundry and he dropped Mom off at the library so she could take care of some business stuff.  Sadly the laundromat was small and busy, so Dad was only able to wash one load of clothes, but at least Mom and Dad now have clean jeans.

Well, about time for me to turn in for the night.  More later.

Love, Doolin

Thursday, September 27, 2018

Annapolis Royal/Digby to Lunenburg/Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

Saturday, September 15 –We left Annapolis Royal and continued on around the Nova Scotia shore.  We made several stops including Saint Mary’s Church, Saint Bernard’s Church, a Saturday Farmer’s Market, and the Oldest Acadian Cemetery.

Saint Mary's Church at Church Point, Nova Scotia.
It's built entirely of wood between 1903 and 1905, with labor 
from 1500 volunteers.  The steeple is 185' tall.



The columns contain the entire trunk from local trees that 
were over 70 feet tall.

St Bernard's Church.  Just a few kilometers down the road.  
Built entirely of stone between 1910 and 1942.  

Inside of St. Bernard's Church at Church Point.

Shore Marsh

We stopped at Yarmouth, which is on the SW corner of Nova Scotia and got a spot at Wal-Mart for the night.  Then Mom and Dad took the Jeep to the Cape Forchu Lighthouse and stopped by Heritage Brewing Company.  On the way back to me, they stopped at a market to buy some scallops and Dad cooked those for dinner.

Cape Forchu Lighthouse, with the sun trying to break through the fog.

The Harbor in Yarmouth

Low Tide

Sunday, September 16 – Today we woke up to more fog and cool temperatures.  We decided to leave Yarmouth and drive to Lunenburg.  Mom read that Shelburne (on the way) was a cute town, so we decided to pull off the road and check it out.  While we were driving, the fog cleared and the sun came out.  By the time we got to Shelburne it was in the low 80’s.  We didn’t know it when we decided to stop, but quickly learned that it was the weekend of their annual Windspinner and Weathervane Festival.  Mom and Dad left me in the RV in a parking area and walked down to the waterfront to see all the Windspinners and Weathervanes on display.  

Windspinners on display in Shelburne

While they were there, they toured the local Dory factory (now a museum) and learned about fishing, years ago.  A Dory is a small fishing boat.

Dory factory

Inside the Dory museum

Tonight we set up at our campground in Lunenburg for two nights.  Lunenburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  A quaint, well preserved 18th Century town.

View from our Campground

At the Dock in Lunenburg

Monday, September 17 – Today is a beautiful, sunny day, so Mom and Dad decided to drive to Peggy’s Cove.  It’s about an hour away.  On the way, they went through the village of Mahone Bay, which is famous for its three churches on the bay.

The Churches of Mahone Bay

Peggy's Cove is a picturesque little fishing village..




With a lighthouse on the rocks...


Fabulous views...



A beautiful Mermaid...

Yes, she's wearing shorts!  It was about 80 degrees, even though it's September 17.

It's peaceful and serene.  Well, not exactly!!  Really, it's mobbed with about 1,000 tourists that come off of cruise ships in dozens of tour buses...


This is just one of the parking lots.

Even with all the other tourists, Mom and Dad had a good time.


I still have a little more to tell you about Lunenburg, but I'll save that for another day.

Love,

Doolin

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Five Islands Provincial Park to Annapolis Royal/Digby, Nova Scotia


Where are we today? - Wednesday, September 26 - Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia.


Here is a broad view of where we have been.  
The red arrow marks our spot today.

This is Cape Breton Island, with the red arrow marking today's spot.

But first, I need to tell you about all the things we've been doing since my last post.

Monday, September 10 – Today I took a nap in the morning and a siesta in the afternoon, while Mom & Dad went out exploring.  First they went to the Five Islands Lighthouse.

Five Islands Lighthouse with the Five Islands in the background

Then they went to the Spencer’s Island Lighthouse.

There are two ladders that take you to the top.  Dad went up to the top.  
Mom stayed at the bottom.

Their next stop was the Cape d’Or Lighthouse.  It wasn’t far from the parking lot, but the trail was steep.

The parking lot is near the top of the hill on the left.

Then, they went to Cape Chignecto Provincial Park.  They hiked the Fundy Ridge Trail which is 5 km.  It was a beautiful hike that started in forest and they hiked 410' up and over a ridge and back down to a bluff.  Then they went down about 150 stairs to the beach.  They returned to the visitor center via the beach.  
The stairs came down along a small waterfall

Beautiful hike along the beach.

After their hike along the Fundy Ridge, they went to another section of Cape Chignceto Provincial Park to hike to see the Three Sisters.  The trail is only 1.2 km with a 60 meter elevation change, so seemed like a leisurely walk in the park.  The only real problem was that the “park” was full of mosquitoes.  Mom thinks they filmed the Deep Woods Off commercial here.  Despite mosquito repellant, they were still swarmed.  They did have some nice views.



The three sisters.  One is a bit shy, unless you go down to the beach.

On their way home, they stopped at The Wild Caraway CafĂ© in Advocate Harbor.  If you ever get to Advocate Harbor, Nova Scotia, you MUST check it out.  Dad had Seafood Chowder.  It was a big bowl and full of seafood in a nice cream base with herbs.  Mom had Scallops with falafel, tomato cucumber salsa, spring onion, and garlic scape crema.  They both raved about the meal for days.  I thought that was mean, since I had the same old kibble when they got home.

Tuesday, September 11 – Today we drove to Truro.  It's raining and gray, but that's OK for a driving day.  We stopped at a nice spot with a view of a river and there was Wi-Fi.  Mom and Dad worked while we waited a couple of hours.  Then, we saw the coolest thing.  It’s called a Tidal Bore.  

The Bay of Fundy has some of the largest tidal changes in the world.  At high tide, there is so much water flowing into the Bay that it surges up the river, changing the direction of the river for a few minutes.  This happens twice a day at high tide.  That’s why we hung out here for 2 hours.  It was very cool, but pretty hard to show in still photos.  You will just have to come here to see it.

After we saw the Tidal Bore, we drove through the rain to a town called Annapolis Royal.   It’s an important place in the history of Canada and Nova Scotia.

Wednesday, September 12 – Today Mom and Dad spent the day in Annapolis Royal.  First they went to the Annapolis Tidal Generating Station.  It was built in 1984 and generates electricity from the tide.  When the tide comes in, it fills a lake behind a dam.  Then, as the tide recedes, water flows from the lake and generates electricity.  It's a relatively small plant, but it can generate power for 4500 homes.  Pretty amazing!



Then they went into downtown and looked around the shops.  They they went to the Fort Anne National Historic Site.  European settlers first came to this part of Canada in the early 1600's.  Fort Anne was originally built by the French in 1636.  Control passed back and forth between the French and the British and changes and "improvements" were made over the years.  The British took control in 1710 and the area remained British.
  


When they first got into Annapolis Royal, they walked by the dock and saw a fishing boat, sitting on the mud.  That’s the picture on the top.  The photo on the bottom is the same fishing boat, 2 hours later.  It shows how much, and how fast, the tide changes here.



Then, they went to an area just outside Annapolis Royal to the Port Royal National Historic Site.  They learned that the French settled at this site in 1605.  The site was burned in 1613 by British colonial soldiers from the colony of Virginia (in what would become the US).  The site has a recreated settlement, built to the original plans, and using construction techniques from the 1600's, showing what it was like in the early 1600’s. 



Thursday, September 13 – This morning Mom and Dad went to the Mac Donald Museum in Middleton.  They have a great collection of old clocks and watches.  Dad likes this kind of stuff.

Then, they drove to the Grand-Pre’ National Historic Site.  There they learned more about the Acadians (early French Settlers) in this area and that they were rounded up and removed from the area, by the British, in 1755.  Some of those were sent to Louisiana.

Grand-Pre’ is a memorial to those whose lives were changed by the mass removal and includes a very nice chapel.



They had dinner at Hall’s Harbor at the Lobster Pound.  They don’t often say bad things about places, but they rated this restaurant a big disappointment.  Mom had the lobster bisque which was basically Campbell’s tomato soup with one chunk of lobster in the middle.  It was one piece, too big to eat on its own and no knife provided to cut it.  L  At least it was a pretty setting, so not a total loss


Friday, September 14 – Today Mom and Dad drove to a nearby town called Digby.  They looked around the shops in downtown and had lunch at the Crowe’s Nest.  This was recommended to them by fellow travelers a few days ago and they agreed it was great!  They had scallops and thought it was a great lunch with good views.




The same people that recommended the Crowe’s Nest, also recommended a whale watching cruise.  Mom and Dad called, but there was only one seat left, so they couldn’t go L   Instead, they decided to drive along the “Digby Neck”, which is a spit of land off the NW corner of Nova Scotia.  They took a hike to Gulliver’s Cove.  Dad heard a noise and looked out and saw two whales breach, just off shore.  Mom has been teasing Dad about Cheap Ed's Whale Watching "Cruise" ever since.

Gulliver's Cove


Another "Before and After" of the tide change.  This time in Digby over about 4 hours.



Until next time...

Love, 

Doolin